Category: travel

Malta

The last bastion of the Knights Hospitaller (the Order of Saint John), this island nation preserves more than 8000 years of human history. Ruled by all major ancient (Phoenicians, Romans, Greeks) and modern (Arabs, Aragons, French, British) empires, the Mediterranean island is a melting pot of cultures and traditions.

How to get there

The Island nation can only be reached by air or sea. There are regular ferry services from Sicily. The singlular airport in Malta caters to international tourists. Air malta is the national carrier of the country, it operates daily flights to mainland Europe and America. I had taken a flight from Frankfurt to reach there.

Where to Stay

Cities in Malta can easily pass as neighborhoods. There are a plethora of options to choose the location of your accommodation, the Capital City of Valetta is a tourist hotspot, outside Valetta, there is Floriana, Rabat, Mdina, Mosta and Marsaxlokk. In case you prefer a place away from the din and bustle of the crowds head over to the sister islands of Gozo and Comino. I had stayed at Hotel Kursura Port View, Valetta. It is located right next to the lower Barrakka gardens and provides a good view of the Valetta Harbour.

How to Commute

Buses are the only mode of transport in Malta, the public authorities ply regular buses throughout the island. There are ferry and boat services along the Valetta waterfront. Most of the cities can be covered on foot however in order to move between the cities you would need public transport. You can pay for the ticket directly to the driver once onboard, it costs you about 2 euros for a single ride.

Things to See

Malta is a quaintly magical place, quite different from mainland Europe. Ambling along its many narrow alleys takes you back in time, almost every corner preserves something of historical and cultural significance. I had started my journey in Valetta, if you are coming from the airport the bus will drop you just outside the gates of Valetta in the central bus terminal. Walk through the hallowed gates and enter Republic Street, this is the central vista of the city and most places of historical significance lie on both sides of the street. Along with Republic street, Merchant street is a major tourist hub. Here you can find ruins of the ancient parliament, the National Library, St John’s Co-Cathedral, the Grandmaster’s Palace, Manoel Theatre and the National Archealogy Museum. The Barrakka gardens and the Valetta harbour lie to the right of Republic street.

I would highly recommend visiting St. John’s Co-Cathedral, its simple exterior hides the magnificent interior bedecked with Caravaggio’s paintings, the ornamental baroque decorations make it a gem to behold. Cut a corner towards the fag end of Republic street and you end up at St. Elmo’s fort and Museum. Here you can also see the Malta Experience, the Bell Tower which is close to the lower Barrakka Gardens.

The Malta Experience is a must for anyone looking for an indepth insight into the lives of the Knights. You get to pass through the same hallways and rooms which the erstwhile Grandmaster’s had used and where the wounded from the crusades were treated. Upon entry you are handed an iPad, it has a VR enabled navigation app installed which guides you through every room and projects images of how the place looked like back in the days. There is also a 3-D hologram of the Grandmaster who explains in details about the origins and role of the Knights of Malta. Fun fact – there is a residence for the knights perched atop the Aventine Hills in Rome. From the keyhole of this residence you can get a silhoutted view of the dome of St Peter’s Basilica.

St. Elmo’s Fort is located just opposite to the Malta Experience. The star shaped fortress has successfully repelled many sieges over the centuries. It offers great views over the harbour and exhibits the arsenal of the British Naval and Airforce during the second world war. It also has a specific museum dedicated to the Great Siege of 1565, which paints a pen picture of the valour of the mighty knights. A meagre force of 6000 soldiers (among them 500 knights) successfully defeated the vastly outnumbered and overarmed Ottoman army of more than 40,000 soldiers. This is truly a David and Goliath story in the chequered history of Malta.

The Upper Barrakka gardens, located about 700 metres from the fort is very close to Valetta city center. It offers breathtaking views of the three cities – Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua. Everyday at noon there is a customary battery salute when the cannons of the artillery battery are fired to salute the passing ships. These gardens also have a treasure trove of hidden secrets like the Lascaris War Rooms. These underground bunkers bear witness to Britain’s secret strategies during the Second World War, Malta was the base for the allied invasion of North Africa and Mediterranean. These war rooms had played a pivotal role in the success of the allied forces. The Barakka elevator takes you down to the Valetta Harbour and you can take a boat from here to the other side. The ride costs you about 1 euro and you end up on the shores of Birgu close to the Malta Maritime Museum.

Outside of Valetta, Malta has the world’s largest concentration of Megalithic Temples. The most famous is inarguably the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, which is said to be more than 6000 years old (atleast). This underground neolithic temple has many labyrinthine altars, shrines and burial chambers, its origins still remain shrouded in mystery. But this is indeed an engineering marvel of the ancient inhabitants of Malta. Be sure to book your tickets months in advance because only a limited number of people are allowed to enter each day. Other than the Hypogeum there are other temples like – Tarxien, Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, these are dated to be atleast a millennium younger than the Hypogeum and yet are suprisingly well preserved. Apart from these temples there is also the Ghar Dalam caves, which bear testimony to the lives of the earliest settlers in Malta. It also has the remains of animals which went extent during the last Ice Age.

About 5 miles from the Tarxien Temples is the colourful and quaint fishing village of Marsaxlokk. The small fishing boats locally known as luzza litter the harbour, bringing in the fresh catch daily. There is a fish market in close vicinity of the harbour and lots of cafes on the waterfront where one can people watch for hours while sipping a cup of coffee. 10 miles west of Marsaxlokk are the underwater caves known as the Blue Grotto. The sea algae gives the alcove its characteristic cobalt blue color. You can go for a swim here or take a raft to explore its interior, it is a vantage point giving a picturesque view of the ocean.

At the center of the island is the medieval capital of Mdina. The walled city perched atop a small hillock, has been the home of the Knights during the middle ages, it offers panoramic views of the entire nation. It houses Malta’s oldest cathedral – St. Paul’s Cathedral and the 18th century Vilhena Palace. Next to Mdina is Rabat where you can get a glimpse of the city’s necropolis (St. Paul’s Catacombs) which has many underground tombs dating back to the 3rd century, during the early days of christendom on the island. Malta is a popular filming location for many famous Hollywood movies (Jurassic Park, the Mummy, Pirates of the Caribbean). The north-western coast still houses the sets of the Popeye movie from 1980, it is locally known as Popeye Village and is a popular getaway among locals and tourists alike.

A trip to the island is incomplete without a visit to the Mosta Church, a nineteenth century church built in Romanesque style, it has Europe’s third largest dome. In 1942, a german bomb fell through the dome of the church while it was full of people and miraculously didn’t explode. Today you can still see cracks in the roof through which the bomb had pierced through. A replica of the bomb is kept in the church for people to gaze at. Below the church are the bomb shelters dating back to the second world war. Apart from Malta it is highly recommended to spend a day or two on the sister islands of Gozo and Comino. Gozo was the filming location for some episodes of Game of Thrones (season 1). Comino is an islet inhabited by 30 families or so and makes for a perfect getaway from the crowds.

Things to Eat

Maltese Food is an eclectic amalgamation of Arabic, Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. Having lived in Berlin for a while, I have been accustomed to the large serving portions in German restaurants, however the hearty Maltese portions blow the Germans out of the water. The food hall in Valetta (Is Suq Tal Belt) is a one stop shop for all national and international cuisine. Stuffat Tal-Fenek (Rabbit Stew) is the national dish of Malta so is the fish pie (Lampuki). However, more often than not you will find yourself snacking on the Pastizzi (a cheese filled flaky pastry). Apart from this the Maltese sausages and cheese taste distinctly different from those available in mainland Europe. Of Arab influence is Imqaret a date filled pastry often served with a dollop of ice-cream and whipped cream. For those with a sweet tooth try out the multitude of maltese desserts on offer, you cannot go wrong with this.

How much does it cost

Malta is quite light on your pocket, a single meal will cost you less than 10 euros. A room near the Valetta waterfront is anywhere between 40 to 50 euros a night. Since, it has officially adopted the euro you don’t have to worry about exchanging your paper bills in case you come from a country which has the euro as its national currency. There are many forex shops in Republic street and Merchant street and most places accept payment in cards anyway. The entire trip had cost me about 300 euros (all inclusive).

Zagreb

The capital city of Croatia situated along the banks of the Sava river and at the foothills of the Medvednica mountains has been inhabited since the Roman times. Historically consisting of the twin enclaves of Kaptol and Gradec, it has been ruled by the Hapsburgs, Hungarians over the centuries and the Soviets more recently (as a part of former Yugoslavia). It is a modern metropolis which is at the forefront of the country’s economic and cultural activities.

How to get there

Zagreb is conveniently situated close to both the Hungarian and Slovenian capital cities of Budapest and Ljubljana. Interestingly, it is only four hours away from Venice and Vienna. The central station at Zagreb is well connected to its neighboring countries as well as eastern european capitals like Belgrade. Croatia Airlines is the national flagship carrier of the country, it has connections to all major western European cities like Frankfurt, Zurich, London etc. I had taken the bus(Flixbus) from Berlin to Zagreb. It was a 20 hour long journey passing through Austria and Slovenia. I would personally not recommend this, its easier to fly in there or take a train to Vienna and then plan your onward journey.

Where to Stay

Most people prefer staying in either the Donji grad or the Gornji grad (Lower Town and Upper Town). Since the historic center of Zagreb can be easily covered on foot, try to find an accommodation in the neighborhoods close to Lenuci’s Horseshoe. It will give you easy access to all major landmarks and make the navigation much easier. I had stayed at Palmer’s Lodge Hostel, it is close to both the train station, and the bus station and also lies within a mile from Jelacic Square (the proverbial heart of the city).

How to Commute

Trams and Buses criss cross the capital city, there are also special night buses operating. A single day pass will cost you about 4 euros. It is one of the most cheapest capital cities when it comes to public transport. There is also a funicular taking you near the Lotrscak tower in case you would like to avoid the uphill climb.

Things to See

When it comes to Croatia most people picture beaches along the Dalmatian coast – Split, Dubrovnik and Zadar of Game of thrones fame. However, personally I feel that Zagreb has a lot more to offer in terms of its many museums, restaurants and open vistas like Maksimir Park and the Botanical Gardens. Jelacic Square is a good place to start your journey, straight up from the square you can see the medieval watch towers of Kaptol and the heavily ornamented spire of Zagreb cathedral. This neighborhood also has many restuarants and cafes on both sides of the pavement. There is also the Dolac market in close proximity, this market hosts local farmers selling their fresh farm produce. There are also stalls selling souvenirs and local delicacies like Licitar (a heart shaped candy).

Next to the Dolac market are steps leading to one of the most lively avenues of the lower town, and in one of these alleys is the entrance to the Gric tunnel. The tunnel was initally built as a bomb shelter during World War II, it was later renovated and is now a pedestrian walkway. It connects the lower town to areas close to the upper town. One exit takes you to the base of the funicular while another leads you close to St. Mark’s Church square.

St. Mark’s Church is one of the most iconic landmarks of Zagreb rivalling the Zagreb Cathdral at times. It is easily recognizable from its chequered roof which which is embellished with the Coat of Arms and colors from the national flag. In front of the Church is the Lotrscak tower, which offers panoramic views of the city at one end and the Medvednica mountains at the other end. A cannon is fired every afternoon from the top of the tower, keeping the age old tradition alive. Legend has it that is was initially fired everyday to inform the residents of Gradec (old settlement in the upper town) that the gates of the neighborhood are closing for the day, so that they might return to their homes. During the evening, there are many street musicians near the base of the tower and their mesmerizing tunes alchemized with the zephyr atop the tower is an anodyne to the soul.

The museum of broken relationships, contrary to its name celebrates the universal and all encompassing nature of love. From the quirky and hilarious to the sad and sombre, the exhibitions on the museum cover the entire spectrum of human emotions. There are many interesting stories of togetherness, love and death which one can get to know from the exhibitions here. Especially interesting are the stories of the soldiers during World War II, there is a special section dedicated to them. This contains letters sent by these soldiers to their loved ones, sometimes more than half a century old these letters might even moisten your eyes. I would recommend spending atleast an hour in this place and browsing through all the rooms.

The left side of St. Mark’s square leads to the Stone Gate which contains the altar of Virgin Mary, it is said to have been unscathed by a fire in the 18th century. The City Museum of Zagreb is in close vicinity. This museum maps the evolution of the city from the Roman to modern times. It also houses artifacts displaying how the daily life and habits of people in Zagreb have evolved over the ages. One interesting feature of the museum is that it has preserved some of the excavation sites in-situ.

Lenuci’s Horse shoe is a central vista (shaped like a horse-shoe of course) starting at King Tomislav’s square, it has the largest concentration of Museums, Art Galleries and parks. If you start at the central train station you can see the imposing statue of the King, behind him is the Zagreb art pavillion with its characteristic amber exterior. Along the same road lies the Stossmayer Gallery of Old Masters, and many verdant open spaces. In close vicinity is the War Photography Museum and the Archealogy Museum.

At the other prong of this central promenade lies the Art and Craft Museum, the School Museum and the Botanical garden. If you are done with all the sites in the city center then its a good idea to head off to the far flung corners to gaze at the Maksimir park or hike to the castle atop the Medvednica mountains.

Things to Eat

Zagreb is the home to delicacies from all over the Dalmatian coast. Centuries of rule under the Ottomans has bestowed upon the country the characteristic flavors of the Balkan cuisine. Burek and Doner are staples in Zagreb along with the sour cream and cheese. Strukli is a soft dough filled with sour cream and Cuspajz – a hearty meat and vegetable stew are among the signature traditional dishes of Zagreb. They also have their own version of Schnitzel and Risotto (Black Risotto), I really like their traditional way of preparing pork meat on skewers.

How much does it cost

Zagreb is one of the cheapest capital cities in the europe. At the time of this writing one Croatian Kuna is worth 0.13 Euros. You can easily enjoy a hearty meal in less than 10 euros. There are many money exchangers scattered all across the city, however most places will accept credit card or even euros. The entire trip had cost me about 150 euros (all inclusive)

Oslo

Established as a trading post at the end of the Viking age (in the 11th century), this modern metropolis is the capital of Norway and its most populous city. Home to the Nobel Peace Centre and the prestigious City Hall, where Nobel Prize winners are felicitated every year. This city has many museums and memorials honoring the heros of the Norwegian age of exploration.

How to get there

Oslo is well connected to all major capital cities in Europe and Asia through its international airport at Gardermoen. Norwegian airlines is the flagship carrier of the nation and it has chartered flights all over Europe. It is easily accessible from Denmark and Sweden through rail, road and sea. I had taken the bus(Flixbus) from Copenhagen to Oslo. It is an overnight journey which passes through Malmo in Sweden and takes you through the iconic underwater bridge between Copenhagen and Malmo.

Where to Stay

There are many neighborhoods which you can stay like Grunerlokka, Sentrum, Frogner. There are also a lot of accommodations in one of the many archipelagos which form the Oslo Fjord. I had stayed at Smart Hotel Oslo, which is very close to the National Theater at St. Olaf’s gate. It is also close to major tourist attactions like City Hall, Nobel Peace Center, Royal Palace, Akershus Fort and the Museum Island (Bygdoy).

How to Commute

Most of Oslo city center can be covered on foot or bike. Ruter is the public transport operator of the city – trams, buses, ferries and the subway connect every corner of the cosmopolis. A single (1 Zone) ticket will cost you about 3.4 euros while a day pass(for a single zone) will be around 11 euros.

Things to See

Commence your journey at the Oslo Bus terminal, take the road leading to Karl Johans Gate. This is one of the most picturesque streets of the city with high end shopping stores on both sides of the street. There are many refurbished 19th century manors along the way which give it the Old Town look. The spire of the Oslo Cathedral rising high in the firmaments at one end of the street looks almost magical.

Other important landmarks on the way include the University of Oslo (Faculty of Law), which was established in 1811 and still has the orignal romanesque pillars preserved at its entrance. The National Theater, outdoor ice skating ring and the subway station all lie in close vicinity. Towards the fag end of the road, the Royal palace spreads out majestically on the palace lawns with many small lakes and fountains surrounding it.

Further right from the National Theater, is the acclaimed Oslo City Hall (Radhuset), sculptures from Old Norse mythology embellish the walls of the building. The hallowed gates lead you to its august premises, which has seen many legends and luminaries receive one of the highest honours of recognition (the Noble Prize). Behind the Radhuset in Aker Brygge is the Noble Peace center, which hosts documentaries and memorabilia surrounding the lives of former Noble Peace Prize winners. Around the corner from the peace center is the legendary Akershus Fortress – a medieval castle, which formed the first line of defence against the foreign invaders and has withstood many sieges over the centuries, providing protection to residents and royalty alike. There are many museums on the castle grounds like – Norway’s Resistance Museum, Prison Museum and Armed Forces Museum. It also offers panoramic views of Oslo City Center, Aker Brygge and Oslo Fjord.

Bygdoy is the proverbial museum island of Oslo, just a ferry ride across Aker Brygee. It has the following notable museums – Norway Folk Museum, Viking Ship Museum, Kon-tiki Museum, Fram Museum and Norwegian Maritime Museum.

The Viking Ship museum has the most well preserved Viking longboats in the world. There is also a documentary running every 10 minutes about the life and origins of the Vikings. Several artifacts obtained from the numerous burial sites of the Vikings is also on display here. Take your time to seep in the legend of these early age explorers. Next to the Viking Museum is the Norwegian Folk Museum, it is an open air museum which displays houses from all over Norway. It is one of a kind experience where you get to step into these archaic houses and get a glimpse of how life was back in the days. There is also an original 14th century wooden church fashioned in norse style. Its very well preserved and a sight to behlod indeed.

A litte further down the road near the harbour is a triad of museums – The Kontiki Museum, Fram Museum and the Norwegian maritime museum. Kontiki museum vividly captures Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon tiki expedition – the greatest adventure of our times. The original raft used for the expedition and the route charted out by the adventurers across the choppy waters of the pacific has been well documented in the museum. The adventure seems straight out of a children’s storybook, except it’s real (totally surreal). The Fram(Forward) museum lies just in front of the Kon-tiki museum, it houses the legendary ship which was the first to sail to the farthest points of both the North and South Poles, thereby expanding the proverbial boundaries of the world. You will get an unique opportunity here to climb up to the deck of the ship and have a glimpse of what life was like for Roald Amundsen and his crew navigating through the icy waters of the Antarctic.

Other notabale sites in the city include – The Vigeland Scupture, which lies inside the Frogner Park, the Ski Museum and the Munch Museum (for art afficionados)

Things to Eat

Like Copenhagen, Oslo is also at the forefront of the new Nordic cuisine. Traditional norwegian cuisine includes a lot of Rye bread, fish, sausages and brown cheese. Norwegians sure love their pickled herrings and smoked salmons. Mathallen is Oslo’s answer to Torvehallerne. Wildberries like Lingonberry, Bilberry and Cloudberries are much vaunted for their medicinal properties and refreshing aftertaste. There are several restaurants dotting the waterfront in Aker Brygge in front of Akershus fort. In one of these places I had tried Smoked Halibut in blue mussel sauce, I would highly recommend sea food here. Those with a sweet tooth should definitely go for the Norwegian waffles and its many variants.

How much does it cost

Oslo is one of the top ten expensive cities in the world. At the time of this writing one Norwegian Krone is equal to 0.091 euro. Card payments are accepted all over the city, infact they are the preferred mode of payment. You won’t need to worry about paper bills at all. A single room in a 3 star hotel near the city center costs about 55 euros a night. A single meal in a decent restaurant will be anywhere between 25 – 30 euros. The entire trip had cost me about 170 euros.

Copenhagen

The land of the Vikings and once the seat of power in Scandinavia, this nordic capital is located at the cusp of the North Sea. Home to luminaries like Hans Christian Andersen and Hans Oersted, the Danish capital has been the center of flourishing art, culture and innovation for many centuries now. Lego is perhaps their most easily recognizable contribution to the world.

How to get there

The capital city is very well connected to other Nordic countries via sea and air routes and sometimes by land (Sweden via Malmo). It is also connected to other countries in continental Europe and the rest of the world, through the Copenhagen International Airport. I had taken the Flixbus from Hamburg to Copenhagen, it takes about 5 hours and offers breathtaking views of the archipelagoes enroute.

Where to Stay

I didn’t stay in Copenhagen, I was there for a day trip (a long stopover) on my way to Oslo. However, some of the popular areas to stay are – Norrebro, Old Town, Christianhavn and Nyhavn. Like all nordic countries, it is on the higher end of the expense spectrum, so be ready to fish out atleast 50 euros a night in a decent hotel which is centrally located.

How to Commute

Copenhagen is one of the most bicycle friendly cities on the planet. The government has invested a lot in building dedicated cycling tracks and other supporting infrastructure around the metropolitan area. The Old Town (Stroget), NyHavn and ChristianHavn can be easily covered on foot, these constitute the lion’s share of all major tourist attractions. There is also regular metro, bus, train and ferry services which connect the city with its suburban areas, it has one of the most efficient public transport networks in the world.

Things to See

Centrally located Norreport station is perhaps one of the best locations to start your journey. However, I had started my journey at the Central Train station, just across the street from the central station is the Tivoli Gardens, the world’s oldest amusement park. It a veritable delight for people of all ages (not just the kids). Walk along the street next to the park and on your right you will be able to see the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (a fine arts museum). Continue straight and take a left from the junction, you will arrive behind the Town Hall square.

The Townhall square is the focal point of the locals during a sunny summer day, it has a lot of landmarks in its vicinity like Jen Olsen’s World Clock, the Statue of Hans Christian Andersen, Copenhagen Cathedral. The Copenhagen Courthouse is a stone’s throw away from the city center, built-in Greco-Romanesque style its imposing columns are a treat for the eyes. The Radhuspladsen has many cafes and restaurants around it, so you can easily take a table on the sidewalk and people watch.

There is a fork at the corner of the square which leads to the Old Town and Stroget. The lively, narrow alleys have high-end shopping stores on both sides and a lot of scrumptious food to gorge on. It’s is one of the longest pedestrian walks in the world and each of the bylanes from here is bound to lead to you somewhere interesting. For example one of the streets lead to the largest Lego shop in the world (a fitting tribute to the birthplace of Lego).

The Round Tower (Rundetaarn) is a 17th-century astronomical tower, it has a 360o observation deck at the top, which provides unparalleled views of the cityscape. It also has a museum dedicated to the life and work of Hans Oersted (one of the founding fathers of electromagnetism). Inside the museum there are interactive displays of the many experiments performed by Oersted, these demonstrations will take you back to the halcyon school days when the only image we had of these scientists and their findings were embossed in our science books. The panoramic views from the top of the tower reveal the profound magnificence of the city and its many architectural marvels. With the Nyhavn river circumscribing many neighborhoods of the city and numerous towers, spires, and turrets rising high into the sky gives it the appearance of paradise city – a surreal sight to behold.

Nyhavn is the most scenic location near the harbor, with its rows of beautifully colored gingerbread houses and scores of restaurants and cafes on the waterfront. Go past Nyhavn and take one of the bridges leading to the National Opera house – a marvel of modern architecture. You can amble along the waterfront here, perhaps grab a drink and sit on one of the benches, gazing at the other side of the town. The relative calm of the place is often shattered by the numerous ferries and yachts crisscrossing the river.

The city is adorned by three major royal palaces – Amalienborg, Christiansborg and Rosenborg. Christiansborg is the seat of the Danish parliament, Amalienborg is the royal residence while Rosenborg has the most beautiful gardens in the city. The viewing tower in Christianborg provides stunning views over the city and across the waters into Sweden as well.

A trip to Copenhagen is incomplete without a visit to the bohemian neighborhood of Christiania. Often dubbed as a free country within Copenhagen established at the site of the old military establishment in 1971. Initially the bastion of squatters, it is now a bustling hub of street art and music. Smoke, Weed (Marijuana), and Beer is freely available at each corner of the neighborhood. You can easily spend a couple of hours atop a small hillock by the lake here and watch acts of freedom (err… people getting high and wasted) unfold in front of your eyes. Christiania reminds me of Uzupis in Vilnius, these two should definitely be sister neighborhoods.

Things to Eat

Copenhagen is the epicenter of the new Nordic cusine, experimental food as well as recycled food. It has quite a few michelin starred restaurants like Noma and Alchemist which have to be booked months in advance. Traditional Danish cuisine consists of staples like Smorrebrod (open sandwiches), artisanal cheese, fish cakes, herring and salmon (pickled & smoked variations of both). Torvehallerne is the mecca of market food, it has about 80 shops selling local fares, this should be definitely on your list of gastronomic enclaves in the city.

How much does it cost

Like all nordic nations, expenses in Copenhagen don’t come cheap. At the time of this writing 1 Danish Krone is equal to 0.13 euros. A single meal in a decent restuarant will cost you anywhere between 20 to 25 euros (atleast). A day pass for public transport is about 17.5 euros. Card payment is widely accepted and encouraged here, even small street vendors have a card reader. So you don’t have to worry about exchanging your foreign currency, just make sure your credit/debit card works and you will be fine.

Ljubljana

The capital of Slovenia was once an important trading hub of the erstwhile Austro-Hungarian empire. The crystal clear waters of Ljubljanica passing through its old town and the mighty hilltop castle keeping a watchful eye on the residents below. This capital city has been inhabited since antiquity (i.e. the Roman times).

How to get there

The capital is well connected to the neighboring states of Hungary, Croatia and Slovakia, by land, rail and air routes. It also has an international airport, which caters to traffic from major western european cities like Frankfurt, Munich, London and Paris. The railway station in the city connects it to all the germanic states (Vienna, Switzerland and Germany) as well as Hungary. I had taken a bus(Flixbus) to Ljubljana from Budapest. The five hour long journey takes you through Maribor and a couple of other small towns along the border.

Where to Stay

The old town, Tivoli park, Republic square are popular neighborhoods to stay in. Since these are close to the tourist spots, you can easilty walk to all major interest points. I had stayed in Hostel Tabor which is very close to the train station and about 500 metres away from the center of the Old Town (Preseren Square), its centrally located and yet in a quiet neighborhood.

How to Commute

It is advisable to cover Ljubljana on foot, all the popular tourist attractions are within a radius of 2 k.m. from the Old Town center. There are however extensive bus routes which connect every corner of the city. A single bus ride costs about 1 euro.

Things to See

Commence your journey at the Dragon bridge, it is one of the most photographed places in Slovenia. Four statues of the mythical beast adorn four corners of the bridge, to the right of the bridge lies the Central market, Open air market, Preseren Square and Triple bridge, while on its left, is the less crowed part of the old town. You can amble along this side of the bridge, following the course of the Ljubljanica. Cross the bridge and turn towards your left, you are now about to enter the most crowded part of the Old town. The central market, which has a lot of shops selling local fares, in front of the central market is the Open air market where farmers sell their fresh produce. It also has a lot of food trucks and food stalls churning out local delicacies.

At the opposite end of the central market is the entrance to the castle, you can either take the funicular to the top, or climb using steps along the hill side. It isn’t a very steep walk to the top, once near the top you will be able to gaze below in order to get a bird’s eye view of the entire city. Marvel at the agglomeration of green spaces and brick tiled roofs, with the hills embellishing the horizon, the entire scene looks straight out of a fairy-tale. There are several medieval museums which you can visit on top, there are also several turrets and watch towers which you may climb to get further up and get a panoramic view of the surroundings. During the summer months, there is also a regular open air movie screening on top of the castle, be sure to check the ticket counters for more information.

Clamber down from the hill and walk towards the fag end of the central market, you will arrive at the Triple Bridge and the Preseren Square. In the vicinity of the square you can find other important landmarks like the Town Hall, Robba Fountain (reminiscent of the Fountain of Neptune in Rome), the Fransican church and the Cathedral.

From the Preseren square follow any fork in the road, they all lead to different destinations. One of them leads to the Congress Square, Republic Square and the National Museum. One of them leads to the Tivoli park and Jose Plecnik’s house. The congress square is near the University and it has a lot of open spaces surrounding it. The Republic Square, contains two imposing Soviet era towers, it was the hotspot of Slovenian struggle for independence. The National Museum catalogs artifacts which reveal the city’s Roman origins, there is also a section dedicated to the pre-historic period. It is here you can find the world’s oldest flute (made of animal bones), its dated to be more than 60 thousand years old.

The Tivoli park is the largest open space in the metropolitan area, it has the Museum of Modern art at its entrance, the Museum of Slovenian History towards one end and the Contemporary Print Art museum at its centre. The perfect way to end your day in the park is to have a delectable horse meat burger at Hot Horse, which is situated close to the Slovenian History Museum.

An hour’s drive from Ljubljana is Lake Bled, where you can witness nature in its ultimate majestic glory. It is a small tourist town, which has a lake at its center, there is an island in the middle of the lake which has a church. The lake is circumscribed by lush narrow hills, on one of these hills is the Bled Castle. You can easily spend half a day here walking along the banks of the lake, taking a boat ride to the island and taking the steps up to the castle. For the best views of the lake and the surrounding verdant landscape go on a hiking trip, its a steep climb to the top and the road passes through forests and muddy puddles. But once at the top, the view is absolutely worth the climb.

Things to Eat

Slovenian cuisine has strong Italian and Balkan influences, perhaps a lasting relic of its chequered past. From the traditional Sausages (Klobasarna), Soups (Gujzina), Fried Chicken, Goulash to exotic meats like Beef Tongue and Horse meat (from Hot Horse), Ljubljana covers the entire spectrum of gastronomic delights. It has a popular cake culture, with many bakeries offering spongecakes lathered with cream, cheese cakes and marble cakes.

How much does it cost

Slovenia is very light on your purse, it is one of those places which makes you wonder how on earth do they manage to keep the prices so low while offering such high quality services. The euro has been officially adopted by Slovenia since 2007. A single meal in a decent place will cost you around 7 euros. Credit cards are also accepted in all major places with the exception of small, food stalls and street vendors. There are quite a few currency exchange places in and around the Old Town especially along the road leading from the train station to the centre of the town. The entire 2 day trip cost me about 130 euros.

Budapest

The capital of Hungary, lies on the bank of the mighty Danube, from the Celts, Romans, Mongols to the Hapsburgs the city has been host to all major empires of its time. The co-capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire (along with Vienna), it consists of the hilly Buda and the low lying Pest.

How to get there

The metropolis is very well connected to its neighboring states like Austria, Slovenia, Slovakia and Czechia by land, rail and air routes. Wizz air, the low cost airlines from Hungary connects the capital to other major destinations in the world. There are three main railway stations in the city with the central station being located on the eastern side, its called Keleti Palyaudvar. I had taken the Flixbus from Berlin to Budapest, its an overnight journey which takes you through other major capital cities like Prague and Vienna.

Where to Stay

Budapest is one of those places where almost every neighborhood is cosy, hospitable and close to some tourist attractions. It doesn’t have a central old town which forms the cynosure of tourist footfalls. You can either live near on the side of Buda, near the hills, the Gellert Hills or cross the Danube and stay near the National museum. Andrassy Avenue is the high end shopping and fashion street of the city, neighborhoods near it are well connected to all parts of the city. I had stayed at Central Hotel 21 and Apartments, its really close to the Market Hall and museum.

How to Commute

Budapest metropolitan region has all forms of modern transport – trams, buses, metro, and also the intercity train. The metro sub stations are conveniently located near all major bus terminals like Kelenfold and Nepliget. It is highly recommended to buy a daily/multi-day travel pass because tickets will be regularly checked in the metro stations. Also, if you are purchasing individual travel tickets for every ride, you have the additional overhead of validating them before starting the journey.

Things to See

You can start your journey on either side of the Danube, I had started my trip at the base of the Gellert Hills which is very close to the Gellert Thermal baths (one of the many baths dotting the city). The uphill climb to the top is not very difficult there are resting places after every couple of metres, you can catch a breath here while gazing at the lapping waters of the Danube and the red bricked Pest beyond it. You will also be able to get a view at the many bridges over the river, most notable among them are Elisabeth Bridge, Liberty Bridge and Szechenyi Chain Bridge. In the distance, you will be able to make out the spires of the Hungarian Parliament building silhoutted against the sky.

The Freedom Monument is perched on top and is circumscribed by a citadel (known as citadella), which was once a medieval artillery bastion. There are many open spaces and parks on the hilltop and you will find a lot of people running or walking during the early morning hours. So that’s one hill scaled the one to go. Descend from the other side of the hill and walk further down the road along the banks of the Danube, you will soon arrive at the foothills of Buda, you can either walk up to the top or use the funicular.

The eponymous Buda hills is a tourist hotspot as it hosts a conglomeration of all major churches, palaces and museums. When you get down from the funicular, the first thing you see is Buda castle to your left and the presidential palace to the right. Saunter along the walls to either side and marvel at the Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture of the buildings. Circumnavigate the castle and head towards the Presidential palace, walk by close to it until the guards shoo you away. Continue along the road, and you will end up at the crossroads from where you can get a glimpse of St. Matthias church and Fisherman’s Bastion. The Bastion was built to honour the seven Magyar cheftains who had established the Hungarian naton. It provides unparalleled views of the Hungarian Parliament Building and the Szechenyi Chain Bridge.

After several hours atop the Buda hill, its time to cross the Danube and move over to Pest. The first stop for me was the great market hall – a 19th century two storied building offering all kinds of fresh farm produce, pickled vegetables, sausages and traditional food. After a hearty lunch at the market hall, continue walking towards the roads leading to Andrassy Avenue and you will end up near the Natonal Museum a brief stop here is recommended for history buffs. With history and food ticked off the list, its time for some rest and repose at the Szchenyi Thermal Baths which are located in the City Park. There is a metro station just next to the baths so getting there is very convenient. The Heros’ square stands at the entrance of the City Park, it has a lot of art museums around it as well. The park is also home to a medieval castle called Vajdahunyad, many cafes and restaurants line the canals around the castle, you can easily spend a couple of hours here people watching and letting the verdant landscape slowly embalming your soul.

Margaret Island, Hungarian Parliament Building, Danube Promenade, Shoes on the Danube

Now that you have been to both sides of the Danube how about in the middle of the river. No, I am not talking about the river cruises, that’s too mainstream, there is a 2.5 km long island in the center of the river called Margaret Island. The island has a lot of international gardens to boast of – Japanese, Chinese, Oriental are to name a few. There is also a light & sound show during the evenings, the island is surrounded by a running track and cycling track, if you are in the mood for it.

The Hungarian Parliament building is the third largest in the world (the largest being Palace of the Parliament in Bucharest, Romania) and it is definitely one of the most beautiful buildings on the planet. The many turrets and spires give it the appearance of a cathedral, the majestic brilliance of its architecture is only revealed when you take a closer look at it. The Danube Promenade is only a short walk from the parliament and there you can find the Shoes by the Danube, a macabre manifestation of Hungary’s Fascist past. To end the day you may head off to the Dohany Street Synagogue, which is the oldest synagogue in Europe and one of the most beautiful in the world.

Things to Eat

Hungarian cuisine is an amalgamation of German, Austrian and Transylvanian flavours. Sausages, Goulash, Fish Soup and Cabbage rolls make up the staple diet of the people. Langos is a national dish of Hungary which consists of a deep fried bread with a smorgasboard of toppings. For the ones with a sweet tooth there is plethora of cakes and pastries to choose from – Somloi Galuska (a cake with whipped cream), Dobos Torte (a sponge cake with buttercream and caramel), Kurtos Kalacs (a hungarian version of the chimney cake).

How much does it cost

Despite its grandeur, Budapest is not a very expensive city, the Hungarian Forint is the local currency. At the time of this writing 1 Forint is equal to 0.0028 Euro. A single meal in a decent place will cost you about 10 euros, a single day travel pass is about 7 euros and overnight stay at a centrally located 3 star hotel is about 30 euros. The entire trip cost me about 120 euros (all inclusive).

Vilnius

The capital of Lithuania and the second largest city in the baltic region. The eponymous Vilnia river flowing through its major arteries and the Neris separating the modern tech neighborhood from the quaint old town. This city has medieval fortifications juxtaposed with bohemian neighborhoods.

How to get there

The capital city is very well connected to its baltic neighbors (Latvia and Estonia), it has an international airport which connects it to major western european capitals like Frankfurt, London and Brussels. FlyLAL is is the national carrier, however it has a very limited operating fleet. The bus routes between the three baltic capital cities (Vilnius, Tallinn and Riga) is very well established, there are almost hourly buses from Riga to Vilnius. Vilnius train station connects it to Riga and other major cities in Lithuania like Kaunas. I had taken the Lux Express bus from Riga to Vilnius, it was a 3 hour journey which passes through many farmlands and villages. I must say this was much better than any Flixbus, I have traveled in, they have a good selection of free refreshments on board and the Wifi always works.

Where to Stay

I didn’t stay in Vilnius (although I wish I had), I was there for a day trip from Riga. The usual places to stay are near the Old Town, the bohemian neighborhood of Uzupis. The newly developed tech hub also has major international hotel chains which offer a comfortable stay.

How to Commute

Vilnius can be entirely covered on foot, that being said it has an extensive network of buses and trolley buses. You can choose between a city card, a travel pass or just single bus tickets, depending on the duration of your stay.

Things to See

Commence you journey at the Gates of Dawn, pass through the gates and make a stop at the shrine of Virgin Mary on the other side. Follow the cobblestoned pavements and you will end up at the town hall, standing tall with Greco-Romanesque pillars. The central square of the old town spread out in front of it. This square becomes the central venue for ice-skating during the harsh winter months.

Continue along the same street and you will cross major landmarks on both sides of the road, Vilnius University, Church of St. Theresa, Church of Casimir, Church of St. Peter and Paul. Like its close cousin Riga, Vilnius too has a proclivity for churches in every corner of the street. Roads which fork from from the central vista lead to many interest points like the Presidential palace, St. Annie’s Church, Pilies Street (an iconic street with niche shops on both sides).

At the very end of the road you will find the Vilnius Cathedral with its imposing bell tower next to it. There is also the statue of Duke Gediminas (the founding Duke of the city) in front of the cathedral. There are many ornate decorations inside the cathedral, I went there on a Saturday and still it was quite crowded. The street at the opposite entrance of the Cathedral (known as Gedimino Street) has high end shops, restuarants and cafes on both sides. It also hosts the National Theatre, and several important government buildings and courts finally ending at the banks of the Neris.

Next to the Cathedral is the Gediminas tower and Castle, take a stroll along the park in front of the castle and proceed to its entrance. It’s a bit uphill climb to the base of the tower, however if you don’t prefer hiking there is a funicular which takes you up to the top in seconds. Entry to the base of the tower is free, you only have to pay to enter the castle museum and the top of the tower. From the vantage point of the tower you get panoramic views of the old town and the upcoming districts on the other side of the Neris. From here you also get a view of the Hill of three Crosses – which embodies the Lithuanian spirit of resistence and resilience. Clamber down the hill and cross the Vilnia river to reach the base of the bleak hill from from there, it’s s circuitous road which leads uphill.

The Hill of three crosses, is the supposed spot were 7 franciscan friars were beheaded in the 17th century. The original wooden crosses collapsed during the second world war and a concrete monument was erected in its place. The same was demolished in 1950s under the Soviet rule. Following the independence movement of 1989, which successfully threw off the Soviet Yolk, the monument was rechristened as a landmark of Vilnius’s glorious past.

Vilnius is also famous for its street art, there was a mural of Trump and Putin locking lips in Pylimo street, however it has since been removed, despite this Pylimo street is a treasure trove of street art. Some houses in front of the central market hall also have their walls embellished (with street art ofcourse). No journey to Vilnius is complete without a visit to Uzupis, the statue of the Uzupis angel overlooks the entire neighborhood. Old and dilapidated houses line the streets giving it a quaint and vintage look, stop at the Uzupis constitution and laugh your heads off at the fundamental rights listed there one of the most infamous is – “Every dog has a right to be a dog“. Uzupis somehow reminds me of Christiania (a neighborhood in Copenhagen), but that’s a story for another day.

Apart from this, there are other notable places in and near Vilnius like the Museum of Occupation, Money Museum, Toy Museum and Trakai – a beautiful castle in the middle of a lake about half hour away from the Old Town.

Things to Eat

Pork and Potatoes are the staple of Lithuanian cuisine. Cepelinai (Zeppelins) is the national dish of Lithuania – potato dumplings stuffed with minced pork, makes it akin to the heavenly shepherd’s pie. Other than this, they have a lot of soups like the Cold Beet Soup and the borscht soup. I haven’t had much time to explore the gastronomic enclaves of the city, there isn’t much one can do in a couple of hours. However from my limited experience, Lithuanian cuisine is not very different from its Latvian counterpart.

How much does it cost

Vilnius is towards the lower end of the expense spectrum. A single meal will cost you about 7 euros in a decent place. They have adopted the euro, so in case you live in the EU and your country has adopted the euro, it is easy for you to just walk in without worrying about exchanging the currency. Not all places in the city accept card payments though, so be sure to carry some paper money. The day trip had cost me about 50 euros (all inclusive).

Luxembourg City

The seat of the Grand Duchy, criss-crossed by numerous viaducts and canals, this is one of the de-facto capitals of the European Union. Cosmopolitan in its DNA (with more than 50% of its population consisting of expats), the city provides free public transport and free internet to everyone. Inhabited since the Roman times, the various walls and ramparts in the city bear testimony to its many occupants over the centuries.

How to get there

Nestled between France, Germany and Belgium it is easily accessible from all three countries by land. There are regular train services from Luxembourg Central station (Gare Centrale) to all the major cities in Western Europe. Lux Air is the flagship carrier of the country, and has regular flights connecting the city to important locations on the continent. I had taken the bus (Flixbus) from Frankfurt to Luxembourg City, the 5 hour journey takes you through some of the most scenic roads in Rhineland and crosses the border town of Trier in order to enter the city.

Where to Stay

This cosmopolis has all major hotel chains, homestays and many hostels. The industrial neighborhood of Kirchberg is very popular among hipsters. The area near the Old Town and Central station are the cynosure of most tourist activities. However, if you want a quiet neighborhood while still being close to the city center, I would suggest the following locations – Gasperich and Hollerich. I had stayed at Chambre Gasperich, on Rue Benjamin Franklin.

How to Commute

As of 2020, Luxembourg has free public transport for everyone. It is the first nation in the world achieve this feat. The only mode of transport in the city are the buses, they are frequent, efficient and connect almost every corner of the metropolis. There are some trams but they are only limited to Kirchberg and neighboring areas. There is also a funicular and elevators which connect settlements atop the hill to the ones below.

Things to See

Commence your journey along the central vista leading upto Place Guillaume II, in the center of the square there is an imposing statue of King William the second on horseback. Follow the footsteps of the monarch and you will end up in front of the Palais Grand-Ducal (Palace of the Grand Duke), a renaissance style palace which houses the only Grand Duchy in the world. Nearby you can also find the Town Hall, and the House of Raville. There are a lot cafes and restaurants in the square serving all varieties of cuisine – Italian, French, Japanese, Chinese and Indian, be sure to sample some delicacies here.

The the road adjacent to the square leads to the Notre-Dame Cathedral, a 17th century church of the Jesuit order, resplendent with Gothic and Renaissance architecture. There is also a crypt in the lower levels of the church where members of the monarchy are laid to rest. A narrow alley at the corner of the Cathedral leads to the Monument of Remembrance (a war memorial with a gold statue on top) and offers breathtaking views of the Adolphe Bridge and the Constitution Square. Witnessing the mesmerizing views of the valley and the bridge will help you understand why this location has been adjudged the most beautiful balcony in Europe. I would highly recommend climbing down to the constitution square and then finally to the valley beneath, take in the lush green atmosphere of the many ravines on the way down. Parks and Valleys occupy major arteries of the city, often outnumbering the residential areas in some places.

Behind the Palais Grand-Ducal, lies the historic center of the city, starting with the Casemates Du Bock, a 17th century Spanish underground passage stretching for 21 kilometers, carved on the side of the bock cliff. It housed thousands of soldiers during the second world war, along with their armaments, horses and other livestock. The casemates offer panoramic views of the Grund (medieval part of the old town) and the Corniche Walls. Take a stroll along the Corniche passage which reveals the beauty of this layered city. If you descend down the walls of the Casemates towards the Grund, each step peals back layers of history and opens your eyes to a certain time in the city’s glorious past. You will pass through the Convention center(neimenster), a fortess and the Stierchen Bridge which formed a part of the medieval fortifications of the city. Once you are all the way down to the foot of the cliffs (the Grund), getting back on top is super easy, there is an elevator which takes you to the top and passes through the cliffs, an engineering marvel in its own right.

If you are looking for a vantage point which gives you a bird’s eye view of the enire old quarter, then head over to the glass elevator near the Grand Duchess Charlotte Bridge. It takes you all the way up to the public park in front of the summer residence of the duke. The grandeur of the summer palace seems to overshadow the grand palace, a part of the palace including the royal grounds are open to the public. There are a lot of museums in the city to pique your interest – City History Museum, National Museum and Museum of Modern Art. Outside the city, there are a multitude of medieval castles, the country is famed for its many fortresses, Vianden castle is the closest to the city, about an hour away. Rich in all senses – historically, culturally and of course monetarily, that’s Luxembourg for you.

Things to Eat

There is a saying that Luxembourgish cuisine is an amalgamation of hearty German portions and the characteristic French flavour, talk about best of both worlds. They have a spicier variation of the Bratwurst, and their own version of fish & chips, potato fritters, roasted pork knuckle. The dense dumplings (Kniddelen) topped with bacon are a treat to your senses. For chocolate afficionados look no further than the Chocolate House, its conveniently located just in front of the Palais Grand-Ducais, its hard to miss, as its crowded during all hours. Be sure to order their signature hot chocolate.

How much does it cost

Luxembourg is at the higher end of the expense spectrum, a single meal in a restaurant will cost about 20 euros. Almost all places in the city accept credit cards, so you need not worry about paper bills. One day trip to the city cost me about 200 euros (all inclusive).

Riga

Situated at the mouth of the Daugava river, this Baltic city was established as a trading post by the Germans in the 13th century. The largest city in the Baltic region, boasts of the only operational Zeppelin hangars in the world. Deceptive in its size, the metropolis has a bustling old town, one of the tallest T.V. towers (made of steel) and one of the epitomes of art nouveau (Albert Street).

How to get there

Riga has an international airport which connects it all major European cities, Air Baltic is the national carrier of Latvia and operates most of the flights to and from Riga. It is well connected to the other Baltic States (Lithuania, Estonia) through regular buses (Lux Express) and trains. I had taken the air baltic flight from Berlin to Riga, it’s a short 90 minutes flight.

Where to Stay

Riga has a lot of accommodation options in and near the Old Town, there are also a lot of places near the castle as well which provide a good view of the Daugava. For a quiet and secluded place wander over to the other side of the river near the Riga Technical University. I had stayed at Riga Domus Hotel, which is in the Old Town square just behind the Riga Cathedral.

View of the Riga Cathedral from my room

How to Commute

Most of Riga can be covered on foot, especially the Old Town, Central market and Art Nouveau Districts. They have an extensive network of trams and buses, there are regular bus connections to and from the airport, bus number 22 passes close to the Old Town. You can either buy a travel pass or directly pay the driver when you board the bus, but be sure to carry some small change because the fares start from 2 euros, so they might not be able to change you bigger bills.

Things to See

Deceptive in its brevity Riga’s old town is a treasure trove of history, at the corner of almost every lane and alley there is something feast your eyes upon. House of the Blackheads is the most iconic building in Riga, it was the house of a wealthy German merchant from the 14th century, destroyed by heavy bombing during the second world war, it was rebuilt in 1999, thus looks very spick and span. In the same square you can find the Town Hall, the Museum of Occupation and the imposing spire of St. Peter’s Church silhouetted against the azure sky.

Stroll a little further down the road towards the left, at the corner you will discover the Riga Cathedral gracefully rising in the firmament. There is a fork in the road from the Riga Cathedral one road leads you to the Riga Castle and Daugava waterfront. The other one leads to the three brothers (basically a set of 3 houses with a nice little background story), the Swedish Gate, Powder tower and the old barracks.

The diametrically opposite (from the perspective of the Riga Cathedral) side of the old town is host to a motley of treasures notable among them are – the Freedom Monument, the Opera and Ballet house in a Park next to it, the Cat House, a statue of the Town Musicians of Bremen (yes it’s from the Brother’s Grimm fairy tale, with anti-communist undertones). Latvia’s first and oldest Macdonald’s is directly across the corner from the freedom monument, it was opened months before President Clinton’s visit to the captial in 1995 (no co-incidence there), hence, it is jokingly referred to as the unofficial U.S. embassy. Cross the freedom monument and you will be able to see another church known as Church of Christ Nativity, but this time embellished in Russian style, for a small city, Riga does have a lot of churches.

Outside the old town, the cityscape takes on a different shape, from the Latvian Academy of Sciences building (reminiscent of the Soviet era) to the Central market, there is a lot to explore. The academy of science’s tower has an observation deck on top, that provides panoramic views of the city. Around the corner from the tower, there is an old neighborhood which still has wooden churches and buildings. A few blocks away from there lies the remains of what was once a Jewish neighborhood and synagogue, it’s fate was sealed under the occupation of the Third Reich. Riga’s central market is an engineering marvel, two Zeppelin hangars from the first world war have been remodeled and used as the roofs of the central market. The cynosure of local farm food, it boasts of a wide selection of both gourmet and fresh produce, there are separate sections dedicated to different products (meat, diary, vegetables etc.)

Albert Street is dotted with Art Nouveau inspired buildings, fascinating and surreal at the same time, these buildings hearken back to the golden age of Riga, when industrial revolution made the residents of the city very prosperous. These days some of these buildings are reserved for foreign Embassies, some of them have been converted into museums, only a handful are still inhabited by the wealthy. Amble along this road, admire the architecture of the place, and then saunter over to Kronvalda Park, apart from churches, Riga also a considerable concentration of parks. For people willing to spend more than 2 days in the city, you can visit the National Museum, National Theatre, National Library and a host of other interesting museums like the Motor Museum and Ceramic Museum.

Things to Eat

Riga is a melting pot of different cuisines, considering the fact that it has been occupied by the Germans, Poles, Russians and Swedes at different points in time. The Baltic Rye bread is a starter for every meal. They have their own version of the Schnitzel, Sausages and the colorful Cold Beet Soup. The baltic sea food is fresh and delicious, I had tried their smoked fish in the traditional skewer style. Apart from this you will find a lot of central asian food (from Uzbekistan) in the central market, I was fortunate to find a place selling Pilav and Sashliks. All this pales in comparison to the mighty Black Balsam – the national drink of Latvia. This legendary drink was concocted in 1752 to cure Empress Catherine of her ailments, these days it is the go to cure for common cold and other justifiable ailments.

How much does it cost

The official currency of Latvia is the euro, so in case if you are traveling from the one the EU states where the euro has been adopted, feel right at home. For others, currency exchangers are littered all over the Old Town, so there is no need to panic. For 10 euros you can easily get a 2 course meal at a decent restaurant in the Old Town. Riga lies at the lower end of the expense spectrum, I had spent about 120 euros on a 2 day trip in Riga.

Krakow

Nestled snugly on the banks of the Vistula, lies the medieval capital of Poland and one of the most important historic centres in the world. In the past millenium the city has survived the worst of times starting with a Mongol raid in the 1240s to occupation by the Nazis in the second world war. Despite such atrocities which have been inflicted the city stands as a testament to the resilience of mankind. It’s major landmarks and alleys still in a pristine state as if time wasn’t given the opportunity to carry out its dictum.

How to get there

Krakow is well connected to all major cities in Poland like Katowice, Poznan and Warsaw. There are trains and buses connecting the city to all neighboring countries (Germany, Czechia and Slokavia), it also has an international airport linking it to popular European cities. I had taken the bus (Flixbus) from Berlin to Krakow, it was an overnight journey and was quite comfortable I must say.

Where to stay

The Old town and neighboring tourist areas can be easily covered on foot. The train station, bus terminus and Galleria Krakow (the biggest shopping mall in town) are just next to each other, so it makes sense to stay close to such a central location. I had stayed at Cracow Central Aparthotel which is situated between the train station and the Barbican. There are a lot of accommodations near the Wawel Castle, Kazimierz, Vistulian Boulevards as well.

How to Commute

As already mentioned it is advisable to cover most of sites on foot. However, trams and buses are ubiquitous and connect the city center to the outskirts like Weilickza. Its easy to travel from the Old Town center to Wawel Castle on a tram or bus if you don’t feel like walking. Take the travel pass or Krakow City card in case you intend to stay there for a couple of days. Not all buses/other modes of public transport in general have a ticket vending machine on board so be sure to get the tickets before you board, just in case.

Things to See

Rather than the old town, it’s a good idea to start the trip from Weilickza Salt mine, which is a 40 miunute bus ride from Krakow. The bus number 3 departs from a lane just in front of Krakow Galleria mall, so its super convenient and easy to spot. Once in Weilickza take your time to explore the labyrinths of its salt mines. Built in the 13th century this is the oldest operational salt mine in the world and one of the largest. It reaches a depth of more than 300 metres and spreads undergrounds across 280 kilometers. A guided tour takes you through the meandering tunnels and chambers of this underground behemoth, as you delve deeper you can actually peel through the layers in time and get a glimpse of how salt was mined back in the days. The lower levels have a church, a cathedral and a lot of statues carved out from salt. You will also get to learn a lot about the kings and princes who had been patrons of the mine and had visited it in the past. After this surreal experience, amble off to the town square in Weilickza, it has a cathedral and a lot of bakeries offering polish delights. The only way back to Krakow is through the same route (bus number 3).

Once back in Krakow it’s time to head off to the Old Town to dip your feet in centuries of history. Start your journey at the Grunewald monument in front of the Barbican, walk straight towards the Barbican and behind it you can see St. Florian’s gate which was a part of the medieval defence ramparts of the city. Walk through the gate and you end up in Florianska Ulica, this street was a part of the royal walk during the middle ages. Now it is a high end shopping street, you can gape at the multitude of shops at both sides of the street. At the end of the street you enter the Old Town Square – the largest in Europe.

The Old Town Square is the place where all the magic happens, it pulsates with the polish spirit of resilience. This (Rynek Glowny) is the place where you can find the St. Mary’s Basilica, the Town Hall Tower, the Cloth Market. Climb on top of the tower, in order to get a panoramic view of the Old Town and the entire city. Every hour you can hear the sound of a trumpet only half blown from the Basilica, there is an interesting story behind this, which dates back to the time of the Mongol raids. The Cloth market is the place where you can go for souvenir shopping there are dozens of shops on both sides of the hall, take your time to browse through the multitude of offerings there. From the town square, you may head off to the legendary Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest university in the world made famous by Copernicus. There is a statue of the man himself outside the university entrance. From the university its only a short walk to the Wawel Castle grounds.

The Wawel Castle and Cathedral are the most iconic places in Krakow, the castle grounds provide several vantage points to gaze at the Vistula and the settlement on the other bank. There is also a statue of a dragon breathing fire(yes dragons are real my friend) at one end, near the entrance to the museum. Looking down from the castle grounds you have a great view of the Vistulian boulevards, clamber down from the castle and near the river banks you can easily saunter here for hours taking in the fresh air and perhaps take a bike ride along the river. Additionally, there is another day trip which you can make from Krakow, the notorious Auschwitz concentration camp (which needs no introduction), it was closed while I was there hence missed it.

In case you have missed Auschwitz, don’t worry there is enough history in the Jewish Ghetto, the Old Jewish quarter of Kazimierz and the epnonymous Schindler’s Enamel Factory (which is now a museum) to keep you pre-occupied. Streets of Kazimierz especially those near the synagouge still have the old world charm to it, with a lot of murals and street art. There is a section of a block which is called Schindler’s passage, parts of the movie Schindler’s List where shot here, the apartment block and the houses are quite well preserved here – a grim reminder to the unfortunate fate of the Jews. From Kazimierz it’s a bit of a long walk to Schindler’s Enamel factory, so I would suggest taking public transport. The former enamel factory has been converted to a museum now, it speaks volumes of the Nazi occupation of Krakow in particular and Poland in general. The top floor of the museum has on display, Schindler’s desk, a collection of the utensils manufactured in the factory and another furnitures from the day.

If you have had enough of a grim history session for a day, it’s time to leave those sombre leanings behind and head over to Planty park for a breath of fresh air and some much needed quiet contemplation. You can however, do the same atop Krakus Mound, an artificial hill and burial site. It offers breathtaking views of the city and is a popular picnic and hangout spot among the locals. Other notable locations in the city include the National Library, the National Museum, and the Underground museum in the old town square. Krakow is an experience in itself the place has to be lived in order to comprehend the profundity of its heritage and culture.

Things to Eat

Polish Dumplings (Pierogies) to Polish Vodka, the polish cuisine is designed to cater to all your senses and taste buds. There are numerous street vendors selling the traditional Obwarzanek, its similar to a bagel, pretzel and a close cousin of the simit (in Istanbul), it makes for a nice light meal. I could go on drooling over the Kielbasa (sausages), the Blgos(hearty meat stew) and varieties of soup on offer. Chimera is nice little restaurant in a gothic setting it has a buffet of all traditional polish food along with a great selection of vegan options.

How much does it cost

At the time of this writing, one Polish Zloty(PLN) is equal to 0.22 Euros, this makes the city quite less expensive in comparison to other western european capital cities. A hearty meal will cost you less than 10 euros. Credit card is usually accepted in all restaurants, hotels and museums, however, it is advisable to take some cash in the local currency. There are a lot of money exchangers in the central station and the old town square, be sure to pick the one which gives a good exchange rate.

Prague

Prague is a city of Castles, Bridges, Alchemy and Kafka, once the main residence of the Holy Roman Emperor (Charles IV), it is a modern metropolis, which gleams in the pure radiance of the past. The capital of Czechia, home to more than 2 million people and the hotspot of the Velvet Revolution, there is a lot to explore in this city, it has something to offer for everyone.

1. How to get there 


Being the capital city of Czechia, it is well connected to the rest of the world through land, rail, and air. I had taken a bus (FlixBus) from Berlin to Prague, its less than 4 hours away, and the journey is quite comfortable. You can also take the train, Prague (Praha) Central Station has inter-city express trains running every hour. It is one of the easiest locations to get to.


2. Where to Stay 


It’s always preferable to stay near the Old Town because it’s close to both the Central Station, Bus Terminus, and all other major tourist sites. However, there are a lot of accommodations in Mala Strana near the Prague Castle and also one on top of the Zizkov T.V tower in case you are feeling too adventurous. I had stayed at Hostel Rosemary which is very close to the Old Town Square.


3. How to commute 


The City has all forms of modern public transport – Trams, Buses, and the Metro. Trams are ubiquitous and the preferred mode of travel. It’s advisable that you buy a travel pass (one-day or multi-day) it’s cheaper and saves you the hassle of buying tickets from the vending machines every time you need to use the public transport. I had used all three modes of transport, the city is very well connected, the trains, buses, trams always seemed to be on time.

4. Things to see

Start your journey from the historic old town of Prague. The Old Town square has both medieval and modern juxtaposed. The oldest functioning Astronomical Clock Tower in the world, Church of Our Lady before Tyn, Jan Hus Monument, Kinsky Palace,  and many more interest points. Since, the old town square is at the very center of the city, pick a direction and walk along the narrow lanes and alleys, you are bound to end up at some cool places. For example – if you stand straight, facing the Jan Hus monument, the corner to the left leads to banks of the Vltava River and Charles Bridge. Take the one to your right and you end up near the National Library, walk straight and slide left and keep on walking you will make it to the Old Jewish quarter.

There is a six-foot figure of Sigmund Freud Hanging from the top a building, you have to keep your eyes open in order to see this, I had passed through the same lane thrice and missed it, it’s very inconspicuous. Charles Bridge is undoubtedly, the most popular bridge in Prague (and in all of Europe as well). It has figures of Charles the IV surviving from the 1400s, along with several dozens added over the centuries. It’s a marvel to gaze at the Prague Castle at one end of the bridge and the waters of Vltava lapping beneath it. The most famous statue in the bridge has to be that of St. John of Nepomuck. There are watchtowers at either end of the bridge (I would recommend climbing the one at the end of the Prague Castle in order to get a panoramic view of the river as well as the Old Town).

Cross the bridge and slide to your right, you will be entering one of the most iconic streets of Prague – Mala Strana (the lesser street), St. Nicholas church is the most imposing and touristy place just at the start of Mala Strana. Walk uphill through the Mala Strana and you end up at the Prague Castle, the Presidential Palace, St. Vitus Cathedral, The Golden Lane. Perched on top of a hill, the castle offers some of the most panoramic views of the city. You can easily spend a couple of hours in the Castle, gaping at the treasure trove of artifacts from the Roman to Medieval times. 

If you have had enough of the touristy places for a day, you can head off to another fortress about 5 miles south of the Prague Castle on the other side of the Vltava, its called Vysehrad. Not very popular among the tourists but frequented a lot by the locals, it will offer you breathtaking views over the Vltava, you can easily relax and sip a cup of coffee at one of the many of the restaurants and coffee shops atop the fort. Other notable sights around the city include – Wenceslas Square (popularly known as the Independence square), Rotating Head of Franz Kafka (a technical marvel), the Opera House, National Museum, Municipal House, the Spanish Synagogue, and the monument of Kafka beside it. Head over to Kampa Park for a breath of fresh air and glance at the John Lenon Wall nearby.

One of the hidden treasures of the Old Jewish Quarter is the Alchemy Museum (Speculum Alchemiae), it’s totally surreal and feels like you have entered a dungeon straight out of the Harry Potter movies. Except that it’s real, the underground alchemy workshop was sealed and hidden for about five centuries, it was only after the floods of 2002, that they were accidentally discovered. The king had patronized alchemy and funded this underground laboratory during his reign, it was frequented by renowned astronomers of the day like Tyco Brahe and Nicolas Copernicus. The chambers are very well preserved and the guided tour offers you an insight into this occult art of turning any metal into gold. Not only this the scientists of the day also experimented with many potions like – the elixir of life, potion of love (need any more potter references my analogy wasn’t too far off to begin with), etc. There are also many secret passages which lead from this chamber to important locations in the city like the old town, the banks of the river, of course, these are all sealed now. All this was done in secrecy because the church didn’t approve of the practice of alchemy. So what are you waiting for pack your bags and head over to Prague.


5. What to Eat

Prague is a foodie’s heaven starting from the iconic Chimney cake to Roasted Pork. Among traditional Czech cuisines, their Beef Goulash and Bread dumplings are a must-try. You can also find a variety of soups in Czech kitchens starting from potato soups, mushroom soups to broccoli soup. The Czech have their own variations of Gluhwein and Pilsner which are in some ways better than their German counterparts.

6. How much does it cost


Prague is one of the cheapest European capital cities, one Czech Crown equals to 0.037 Euro at the time of this writing, hence everything automatically becomes much less expensive. The entire trip all-inclusive of the transport, accommodation, food, and sight-seeing cost me less than 100 euros. Most places in Prague would accept payment in card, apart from some street food stalls near the old town. In case you are looking to exchange your foreign currency to the Czech Crown take your time and go over to alteast 3-4 exchange shops, there are many strewn all across the city, sometimes more than one in every corner. You will eventually find one which gives you a good exchange rate sometimes equal to the market rate.